OFBC: Shell Fabrication

Note: This is part of the Project Write-up for OFBC: One Fluorescent Beer Coaster

Design

In parallel with the circuit, we designed an enclosure that would be more sturdy than hot glue and disposable containers.  The general idea was a shell with a lid that had some travel.  Our first designs focused on a mechanical clip to lock the lid in place.  Further ideas were a rail to keep drinks stead, a drain channel for condensation, and an interlocking base/top for easy stacking.  Our lack of expertise with the 3D design software and the complexity of the print made us go back to basics.

More Design Shots

Similar products used a coaster shape, so we started there. As the whole point of this project is to show off, we wanted to make it easy to disassemble top and bottom. To make this happen, we settled on magnets instead of screws for both top and bottom.

First Full-size Print (with Frenchman Mountain in the Background)

Problems

First, the 3D Printer needed to be calibrated, then the extruder needed to be cleaned, then the Kapton tape needed to be replaced.  After a much better test print, we got our first dimensional fit.  Once the PCB was together, we realized two things: 1) the buttons we bought had a much heavier mechanical action than the test buttons and 2) the LED package was too tall for the way we printed the top.  Combine the two, and a lot less light was reaching our girly drinks.  Something had to be done.  The above problems were noted, and various other edits were written directly on the 3D printed shell (a sharpie on white ABS works wonders for clarity).  They were handed off to our man with the printer while the rest of the team worked on PCB fabrication.

Between orders of Kapton Tape - Let's try Painter's Tape!

It was about 10% too small.  Looks like a job for Superm*n!

Not nearly as bright as it should be

Solutions

The final prototype came together the weekend before DEF CON.  Edits to allow the charging cable to escape from the bottom of the case, a drip cover to prevent condensation from entering the shell, more accurately nested tops and bottoms, and a host of other small changes came together for the final prints. In all, the first run is bulkier than we imagined, but we have discussed ways to miniaturize and reduce costs across the board.  It will be something we are proud of showing off.

The 3D printer was the final obstacle.  From miscalibration to a clogged extruder head to a stepper motor burning out, we had our fair share of problems getting the final package in a physical format.  If the repairs don't come through, we'll be manufacturing stand-ins for the Toxic BBQ.  Nothing can stop us at this point. 

The current Sketchup files will be available on the OFBC project on Github.

Great Size, Less Filling

OFBC: Random Design Shots

Note: This is part of the Project Write-up for OFBC: One Fluorescent Beer Coaster

Puzzling Out the Protoboard

Can you Smell the Confusion?

Shell Designs

Initial clip-together design with rails for stable drinks

Circuit, post and spring and modified clip-together designs

Hockey Puck design emerges, Boolean shape building discussions

First practical attempt at dimensional design

OFBC: PCB Fabrication

Note: This is part of the Project Write-up for OFBC: One Fluorescent Beer Coaster

From Protoboard to PCB

The next step along the path was to turn a gawky mess of a protoboard into an elegant example of good design.  This step took a lot less time than I thought it would thanks to Fritzing.  Billed as "Electronics Made Easy", I installed and got up to speed in under an hour.  Conversations with my compatriots helped me tweak and massage the design to our satisfaction.  The end result is a 2" (58mm) PCB for through-hole components.  This will secure the buttons, driver and LED while connecting to the battery.  The experienced among you are probably thinking how absurdly large that it.  It could be a lot smaller, but I consider it acceptable for a first run.  As with other projects, the latest version of the fritzing file will be available on github.

First Run

If I had to pick one part of this project that made me more uncomfortable than any other, it would be the PCB fabrication steps.  I took chemistry in High School and College.  I know the basics.  However, I don't know enough to do it confidently.  I took my queues from MAKE's excellent video tutorial, acquired chemicals at Frys, harvested glass from a recently disabled printer/scanner, and printed transparencies at FedEx Kinkos.  My exposure light was a 26W CFL in a desk lamp.  My red light was a red LED straddling a button cell.

Sneak peek at the Shell prototype

I removed the board from the developer too early or exposed it to too much light. This caused a large region of copper to not develop. There is no way to align and cut a ton of these after the fact. The PDFs exported from Fritzing come out one per page. This means they need to be done one at a time unless you have the skill to post-process the PDF into multiples per page. I pre-cut the PCB's during subsequent runs. My table saw made short work of the big board, and the pre-sensitized copper has a sticker over it that allowed me to cut the board to pieces without compromising its ability to accept an image.

Oops 

Once the etching was complete, I drilled out the traces.  The prototype board was drilled using a 1/16" bit.  This was way too big.  Out of all the bits I tried, normall through-hole components worked great with a 1/32".  A 1/16" bit was required for the MOSFET, however.  The best set I found was one for the Dremel.

Modern Silk Screening ain't got nuthin' on Sharpies

The only part of the process that ended up being perilous was the disposal of the ferric chloride.  The leftovers are back in the bottle.  I'll take them to the waste disposal place soon.  My driveway has a nice big rust spot on it from where I washed off the etchant.  How am I going to explain that to the HOA?  Ultimately, the problems with Ferric Chloride lead me to a different etchant entirely: Cupric Chloride.  See below.

Production Run 1

With the test run experience in hand, we were set to make an attempt at our first full run.  I chopped the boards on a table saw first.  This was a stunning success.  I also redesigned the PCB to include a slide switch to kill the circuit.  This allows long-term storage as a shifting bag or box won't depress the pressure switches and drain the battery.  You might see on the random design shots how we were planning on mounting the LED to the lid.  This changed before the final production PCB run, and we moved all traces outward to make room in the center of the PCB for the LED module on heatsink.  I also added a copper pad in the center to maximize heat transfer.  Some thermal paste will seal the deal.

The exposure took place in the half bathroom.  With access to water and no exterior windows, it was perfectly suited to etching.  Our supplies were:

1. Tape, transparencies and pane of glass.  The circuit image is taped to the glass in a double-thick layer.
2. Positive Developer mixed 10 to 1 in a glass pyrex.  When in doubt, use pyrex to ensure things won't melt through the container.
3. Desk lamp with a sifficiently bright CFL bulb.

And our steps were:

1. In darkness, peel off protective layer from light-sensitive copper clad board.
2. Position the board over the top of your image and tape down.
3. Flip the glass pane over and double-check the board is positioned correctly.
4. Expose for 8 minutes using the lamp.
5. In darkness, remove the board from the glass, and place it in the positive developer.
6. Swirl the PCB in the solution until the image appears.  If your developer is sufficiently diluted, longer development times will be experienced.  It is better to over-develop and start to lose the image than it is to under-develop and end up with no traces at all.
7. Wash off the board when it is sufficiently developed,

Final Exposure Workstation (The Guest Bathroom)

After exposure, good boards were placed into the etchant.  The Ferric Chloride was a great big mess.  It was hard to see how the process was coming without fully removing the board.  In addition, it needs to be heated to be truly effective.  Las Vegas has an ambient temperature of 100F/ 38C, and it still took 30 minutes per board.  You can see the etched boards below.  Before soldering, the etch-resist is removed via acetone.

Finished Product on the Plate

Great Success!

Production Run 2

With DEF CON a week away, we didn't have enough boards to complete our goal yet of nine complete lights.  We met for what we thought was our last etching party.  Much like the previous time, we decided to expose and etch using Ferric Chloride.  These boards looked great.  It was obvious we were starting to figure out how to do this effectively.  Unfortunately, we also forgot to check the boards as they were produced.  All 3 good boards were mirror images of what they should have been.  DEF CON loomed large, and we went with the more radical solution: switch etchants and try again.

The new etchant relied on Cuperic Chloride.  Once again, I turned to Instructables for a helpful tutorial.  The key ingredients were muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide.  As the link shows, the acid and hydrogen peroxide oxidize the copper to form CuCl.  This in turn oxidizes to form 2CuCl by stealing copper from the PCB.  What's better, it needs an acid refresh much less often, and it is completely reusable.  A bubbler or aggressive mixing causes oxygen to oxidize with the 2CuCl and start the cycle again.  We obtained new PCBs (see my rant about Fry's below) and went to town.  We ended up with the 9 boards we needed; we began assembly in earnest.

Lessons Learned

The first board we did had the light placed too close (1-2 inches).  Also, the positive developer was extremely strong.  This caused all of the etch-resistant coating to wash away.  A little more water and moving the light 6-8 inches solved that problem.  When we were doing it right, we waited for the image to appear and then become crisp.  It is extremely difficult to tell in the dark if the image is still cloudy or not.  When in doubt, dilute your developer and leave the boards in there longer.

As with my woodworking posts, the matra is, "Measure Twice, Cut Once."  After every critical step, we had one person check another's work.  This saved us time and again from poorly aligned boards, undrilled holes and bad decisions at the bench.  It didn't save us from all screw-ups (a full crop of mirrored boards), but it saved us other embarrassments.  It also exposed every team member to each point in the process.  In total, five people participated in the manufacture of these boards.  Most have projects lined up that take advantage of things learned along the way.

The boards themselves were a problem, and they highlighted a weakness in the supply chain.  All copper obtained from Fry's failed at least a third of the time.  Online, the consensus was that the boards were old or improperly handled.  The positive developer was much stronger due to being partially evaporated.  The buttons we obtained were stiff and of differing quality that those used in prototypes.  All in all, I would recommend avoiding Fry's if you can help it.  They might have enough materials to get you going, but Amazon or similar suppliers can get you what you need fast enough that it makes no difference.

OFBC: Design and First Prototype

Note: This is part of the Project Write-up for OFBC: One Fluorescent Beer Coaster

Circuit Design

I began the search for parts to fit the Instructable, and I realized I had a lot to learn about each part.  To match the circuit, we searched Frys, Radio Shack, ebay, Mouser and many others online. For an unproven design, going with an unknown module and supplier wasn't an option. Instead, we found all the components we needed on Adafruit.

• Lithium Ion batteries must be matched to their charger to avoid dangerous heat and combustion incidents.  Capacity is determined by the Amp-hours rating.  The LEDs I was targeting were a max of 350mAh, so I looked for batteries had to be over 1000mAh to get the targeted 3 hour run time.
• The charger choice was mostly driven by battery choice.  We didn't feel like we could provide a mounted Micro-B port in the time available, but a charging circuit mounted to a full sized USB plug was a good substitute.  With the shell, we would provide an easily removable bottom and 'mouse hole' to allow the charger to live outside the case.
• Most LED projects online mention heat at one point or another.  To get ahead of this concern, we opted for a heat sink-mounted super bright LED.  This same LED bead was seen on ebay without a heat sink, but we didn't want to screw anything up due to inexperience and opted for the more expensive package for the first run.
• The Driving Circuit was a simple buy, and the choice also dictated our resistor purchase.  The key value from the MOSFET we purchased was Gate Threshold Voltage.  The voltage drop across R2 with the battery we bought had to match this value.  Using V = IR, R = V/I = 1.5V / 350mAh ~ 4 ohms.

Materials List

Name	Description	PID
Battery	Lithium Ion Polymer Battery - 3.7v 1200mAh	258
Charger	Adafruit Micro Lipo - USB LiIon/LiPoly charger - v1	1304
LED	1 Watt Cool White LED - Heatsink Mounted	518
Driving Circuit	N-channel power MOSFET - 30V / 60A and NPN Bipolar Transistors (PN2222) - 10 pack	355 and 756
Resistors	100K and 3.5 Ohm Resistors	Already Owned

Components, Breadboards and Protoboards, Oh My!

Once the materials were in hand, the breadboard went well.  It worked the first time!  While we waited for batteries to charge, we used a simple brick of 4xAA batteries.  The beauty of the driver we chose is that it can drive LEDs using any voltage source over the target voltage.

Using the breadboard and schematic, we attempted a protoboard version of the circuit.  This was a complete mess, and it took us a lot longer than it should have.  However, by the end of a single prototyping session, we turned a jumble of components into a working light.  One high/low note happened when we wanted to minimize the number of connections but didn't have the right resistor for R2.  We twisted two resistors together to get close to R2's 3.5 Ohms and put them through the same hole on the protoboard.  Instant parallel resistor!

Conveniently, the whole project fit under a Ziploc Container lid.  A little bit of hot glue, another section of protoboard with a hole in the middle, and charged batteries got us our first complete prototype!  It was brighter than the equivalent cell phone flash and had excellent diffusion through some purpose-bought Smirnoff Ice.

OFBC: Inspiration and Research

Note: This is part of the Project Write-up for OFBC: One Fluorescent Beer Coaster

The Idea

As night descended at Toxic Barbecue at DEF CON 21, everyone was working through the meat and alcohol they'd consumed much too fast and in much too large a quantity.  Rather than move the party somewhere else (Las Vegas' Sunset Park is safe at night, right?), we began to experiment with cell phone screens, then their flashes.  The lights were bright, but they were also extremely narrow in focus.  

The Liter of Light project gave us an idea to use a liquid to diffuse the light.  As there was still copious amounts of alcohol left behind, we started experimenting.  This 'research' lead us to decide that Smirnoff Ice was the best diffuser.  Filtered beers were awful due to both the dark bottles absorbing light as well as the liquid having no solids to scatter any that was left. Smirnoff had the clear bottle and label as well as a ton of solids from the included fruit juice.  As this was a hacker party and not for frat boys, we had plenty left. The misogynists among us named them 'Bitch Lights' after the colloquial term for Smirnoff Ice: Bitch Drinks.  We had our product; now we needed to separate it from the phones.

Research

DEF CON 22 planning made us realize that we needed to make good on our promises made while too intoxicated to realize we knew nothing about how LEDs actually work.  First stop?  The local Hackerspace, of course.  SYN Shop is in downtown Las Vegas.  Multiple forum members are lighting and electronics techs on The Strip.  They pointed me towards specific packages, drivers and batteries.  I took this foundation and boiled it down to specifics.  I wanted the light to be composed of the following elements:

1. Super Bright LED (1W, 100 lumens)
2. LED driving circuit
3. Battery (3-4 hours of time)
4. Charging circuit (USB)
5. Switch to turn it on
6. 3D Printed Body

Armed with search terms from the forum, I found a wealth of helpful links.  I found LED packages that fit the "Super Bright" definition all over the web.  I learned a ton about batteries and chargers (did you know Sears still exists and has an online store?).  The most helpful site was Instructables.  There, I found several LED driver circuits that I actually understood.  After a trip to Frys left me bewildered with options, I learned to better read datasheets.  Finally, I had a working circuit design.

R2B2

I built a copy of Justin Engler's Delta Bot R2B2.  Here's how I did it with a revised parts list.

Inspiration

Justin Engler and his iSEC Partners team presented his PIN punching robot at DEF CON 21.  Even though it was, by his own admission, a last resort in cracking phone PINs, it received coverage in Forbes and other outlets. 

Build

The 3D prints from my brother's Replicator came out well.  The dimensions were correct overall, but I had to do some filing to get the mounting bracket to slot together.  The servos I used required me to file out the slots a bit as well.  The spokes from my servo mount were a little large, so I filed those down too.  Overall, it wasn't too tough to fit everything together.  When I build another one, I need to see if my problems were caused by the STL files, how the G-Code was generated or the calibration of the printer itself.

The local RC shop called Hobby People had most of the small and moving parts.  Servos, ball joints and such came in at under $30.  Lowe's had the right sized all-thread to finish the job.  One thing about the construction was that I originally bought 10mm hex cap screws to join the ball joints to the biceps.  The way the bicep is built, though, the joint tends to hit the side of the bicep and limit the range of the effector.  To solve this, I moved the ball joints outward with small washers.  This made the 10mm hex caps too short, so I went with 15's instead.  Redesigning the bicep to free up movement might resolve this problem.  I slipped a metal stylus pen through a rubber grommet and effector.  The stylus was grounded with an alligator clip onto the breadboard.

The rest of the robot (as you can see in the pic) are an Arduino Uno, a small breadboard and a four-legged stand I put together from a 1x2 and some angle braces.  The robot is held to the frame by a fender washer through the central hole of the mounting bracket.  The sketch had to be modified with the correct measurements on the actual robot.  Most everything matched, so that built my confidence.  Once I uploaded the sketch, I played around with the machine code and made it dance.  This is when I found out the ball joints were binding against the bicep.  I also dropped the robot, and the short hex caps made it go eveywhere.  D'oh!

I forked and cloned Justin's github to prep for writing some code and tidying up the notes.  Rather than cracking phone PINs, I plan to use this to punch card PINs on PIN Pads used in credit card processing.  I don't think I'll need the OpenCV code, so I'll have a blind version of R2B2 up in my own repository once I learn enough Python to be dangerous.

Finally, Marginally Clever has a new version of the delta bot that uses laser cut parts.  The R2B2 that Justin demoed at SXSW seems to have been made from this version out of acrylic.  Snazzy!  This comes with its own platen and looks mighty sturdy.  I might have to grab one and give it a spin.

New parts list

Count	Cost Each	Name	Description
2	$1.94	Du-Bro 2123 3.0 mm x 10mm Socket Head Cap Screw (4-Pack) P/N 2123	Screws to connect effector to ball joints
2	$1.94	Du-Bro 2124 3.0 mm x 15mm Socket Head Cap Screw (4-Pack) P/N 2124	Screws to connect bicep to ball joints
2	$1.98	Traxxas 5347 Rod Ends with Hollow Balls Large Revo (12)	Ball joints to form the arms from threaded rod
6	$1.04	The Hillman Group 44817 8-32 x 6-Inch Threaded Rod, 10-Pack	Threaded rod for ball joints to connect bicep to effector.
3	$7.99	The Hillman Group 44817 8-32 x 6-Inch Threaded Rod, 10-Pack	Servos that connect to bice. Most will work, but Hobby People has adequate ones for cheap
As needed	Varies	Washers,Flat,3mm DUB2109 and The Hillman Group 36-Count #6 x 3/8-in Zinc Plated Standard (SAE) Flat Washer	Washers to separate arm from bicep and effector. Used to give arms maximum freedom.
1	$2.00	Like Hillman Rubber Grommet (5/16x5/8x5/8x7/16)	Rubber grommet for effector to hold stylus
1	$4.00	Like Stylus pen	Stylus for effector
1	$1.13	1 x 2 x 8 Spruce-Pine Furring Strip	Body for robot
1	$1.13	1-in Zinc Corner Braces	Braces to hold shape of robot
X	$2	Bolt, fender washers and wingnut	Bolt to hold robot to body

February Infosec Links

Security

The PCI Council is delusional: claims the standard is solid when breach after breach confirms it is not.  Blames the victims for poor architecture.
http://www.bankinfosecurity.com/interviews/pci-council-responds-to-critics-i-2175

Good overview of the security landscape.  Good tools with easy configuration will be key.
https://securosis.com/blog/securitys-future-six-trends-changing-the-face-of-security

Cryptography

Privacy

Training

A hackable iOS App used to teach the OWASP Top Ten Mobile App Vulnerabilities.  Great tool to catch up with mobile security and secure application design.

http://damnvulnerableiosapp.com/

DEFCONbots - Genetic Al-Gore-isms v.01 Test

Video of the laser+servosx2 test rig.  Not enough granularity for the contest, but it's a start.

Finalized: January InfoSec Links

Security

Researcher gets hacked and details how he investigated, mitigated, and responded to it.  Enjoyable 'mea culpa.'
https://securosis.com/blog/my-500-cloud-security-screwup

Sigh...It's not just Target that was a target over the holidays:
http://krebsonsecurity.com/2014/01/hackers-steal-card-data-from-neiman-marcus/

Krebs gets the details on how Target was compromised.  Malware on each POS relaying data back to the attackers:
http://krebsonsecurity.com/2014/01/a-first-look-at-the-target-intrusion-malware/

Cryptography

Interesting perspective on RSA and NSA kerfuffle.  Emgage the community around RSAC to counter the actions of the company, RSA.
http://www.mckeay.net/2014/01/06/still-going-to-rsa/


CryptoLocker's new Sibling PowerLocker.  Back...up...everything:
https://www.schneier.com/blog/archives/2014/01/powerlocker_use.html

Privacy

Essay on Twitter's block/unfollow implementation. Serious insight into how public services chose to protect user privacy:

http://modelviewculture.com/pieces/another-six-weeks-muting-vs-blocking-and-the-wolf-whistles-of-the-internet

Well reasoned counter-arguments to the surveillance state excuses:

http://addxorrol.blogspot.de/2014/01/why-intelligence-reform-is-necessary.html

Internet governing bodies meet to discuss how to fight pervasive monitoring (seen as an attack on the internet):
https://www.w3.org/2014/strint/

Privacy concerns from Angry Birds?  Why aren't customer usage statsencrypted?  Anyone could read this information...
http://www.theregister.co.uk/2014/01/27/leaking_smartphone_apps_nsa_gchq/

Training

Matasano teams up with Square (the Credit Card Merchant Aggregators) for an exploit CTF through a web browser:
http://www.matasano.com/matasano-square-microcontroller-ctf/

December InfoSec Links

NSA and Government
Shame on Feinstein: There is a cost to surveillance.
http://www.siliconvalleywatcher.com/mt/archives/2013/12/shame_on_feinstein_co.php?utm_source=buffer&utm_campaign=Buffer&utm_content=buffer54e85&utm_medium=twitter
RSA took $10mil to backdoor their crypto libraries.
http://www.reuters.com/article/2013/12/20/us-usa-security-rsa-idUSBRE9BJ1C220131220
EFF reviews how the CFAA ruined lives and slowed innovation out of fear:
https://www.eff.org/deeplinks/2013/12/2013-review-tragedy-brings-cfaa-spotlight
Getting the ungettable: The NSA's Tailored Access Operations Unit
http://www.spiegel.de/international/world/the-nsa-uses-powerful-toolbox-in-effort-to-spy-on-global-networks-a-940969-2.html
Backdoors R Us: NSA's backdoor catalog
http://www.spiegel.de/international/world/catalog-reveals-nsa-has-back-doors-for-numerous-devices-a-940994.html
Practical Tamper-evident Techniques
http://www.wired.com/threatlevel/2013/12/better-data-security-nail-polish/


Security and Cool Exploits
Via Chavaukin: 10 things Security should stop doing in 2014
http://blog.anitian.com/2014-stop-doing/
Acoustic cracking of PGP keys.  Fantasy attack made real:
http://www.cs.tau.ac.il/~tromer/acoustic/
SD Card Hacking
http://www.bunniestudios.com/blog/?p=3554

Target Breach Madness
International cards and those associated with a zip code fetch a premium:
http://krebsonsecurity.com/2013/12/non-us-cards-used-at-target-fetch-premium/
Putting a face on the Target breach:
http://krebsonsecurity.com/2013/12/whos-selling-credit-cards-from-target/
Target's faster checkout system explained:
http://www.quora.com/What-is-the-new-instantaneous-payment-system-being-used-at-Target
All PINs in the world leaked! (Tongue in Cheek)
http://pastebin.com/2qbRKh3R

Also hilarious: What happens when the common folk get a glimpse at the code behind:
https://twitter.com/neave/status/415533230579019777/photo/1

InfoSec Links for Thursday, November 14, 2013

Adobe Breach Link Blitz:

Root Cause: Cold Fusion

http://blog.imperva.com/2013/11/the-rise-and-rise-of-coldfusion-driven-breaches.html

Also Owned: Limo Company to the rich, famous and well connected.  Note the targeted attacks (often called spear phishing) based on the original hack:

http://krebsonsecurity.com/2013/11/hackers-take-limo-service-firm-for-a-ride/

AT&T owned too:

http://ow.ly/i/3IY72

An interesting article on how most security amounts to Integration concerns and not true security problems.

http://1raindrop.typepad.com/1_raindrop/2013/11/there-are-no-security-problems.html?utm_content=buffer1a3a7&utm_source=buffer&utm_medium=twitter&utm_campaign=Buffer

Also, putting financial security in perspective:

http://ow.ly/i/3IX2N

Updated: Skylanders Hacking

Worked with Skylanders Editor in Windows 8 64 bit.  Here is what I learned:

1. Editor came with source code and a portal driver.  This is great if I want to play with the code itself and build a Mifare Classic encryption cracker out of it.
2. You may need to disable the Spyro Portal Service before Editor.exe can talk to a portal.  Do this in services.msc.
3. I was able to get the PS3 and 3DS wireless portals to work using the driver included in the Editor zip file.
4. When working with the device in any system post-Vista, make sure to run your command prompt or batch file as an administrator.  This allows such ancient technology to access the USB where the portal connects.
5. I was unable to get the wired portal to work.  I believe this one is from Skylanders Giants.
6. I do not have a portal from Swap Force to test it out, but I suspect a new driver will be necessary.
7. My Nexus will not read Mifare Classic cards with the usual apps.  You need keys and something to teach the NFC reader how to talk using the Mifare proprietary format.
8. Breaking the Mifare encryption is my next step.  As described in the Editor v2 docs, the key is a bunch of data from Block00-01 and 35 bytes from a constant key.  I have my bead on a Mifare cracker in Backtrack Linux that will do the job quickly. 

Update: After sitting down with the Editor code and some testing, it seems like the author has done all the work for you.  Still planning an exercise to crack the key myself, though.  I conducted a practical upgrade/downgrade test on a first-gen Skylander.  A normal Skylander will go to level 10 in the first release and 15 in "Giants".  The actual Giant figs have yet to be tested, but I expect similar results.  The data pulled the same and decrypted just fine using Editor v2.0. 

Final Note: Don't tell him, but I may get SWAP Force for my son for Christmas just to get a peak at those new guys.  Curious as to how they sense the fig/element match.  It requires a pretty hefty purchase, though, so it is either that or Disney Infinity.

Pivoting from Planning to Doing

You know what's awesome? When people go from "somebody ought to", to "I ought to".

— Dan Kaminsky (@dakami) November 8, 2013

The above tweet by Dan Kaminsky really got into my system.  As someone who makes lists of things to do, I often get trapped planning more than doing.  Since DEFCON 21, I have tried to focus on doing.  Here is a list of my successes so far:

• Rooted my Sony Ericsson Xperia Play and installed Cyanogenmod 9.
• Studied Arduino and created a few basic projects.
• Started following security wonks on Twitter and have become fairly well-versed in the conversation.

Where to go from here?

• Hack Skylanders and Disney Infinity using tag writers and custom code.
• Help Ethan get through Scratch manual.  He has had a blast so far.
• Creating a product in Arduino.  Planning a card swipe emulator to apply my skills to real world annoyance.
• And probably most important: settle on a handle.  VegasVic?